In the last article, I talked about Shell Cordovan in general terms. In this article, I want to delve deeper into the technical process of how Shell Cordovan is transformed into the incredible leather we all know and appreciate. This won't be an in-depth explanation of how the tanneries produce each shell, but it should give you a good idea and a better appreciation for the process as a whole.
Understanding Shell Cordovan
What is Shell Cordovan?
Shell cordovan is an exceptional type of leather sourced from the fibrous muscular layer located under the hide on the hindquarters of a horse. This specific area yields only two fairly small pieces of dense, smooth material. Unlike cowhide, shell cordovan is noted for its substantial thickness and glossy, glass-like finish that contribute greatly to its overall durability.
Historical Significance
Shell cordovan has a rich history in the world of leather craft. Initially utilized for razor strops to maintain the sharpness of blades, it gained prominence in the early 1900s as a preferred material for high-end shoes and other luxury goods. Its reputation for longevity and quality made it a staple in the production of durable, refined products. Companies like the Horween Leather Company in Chicago have been pivotal in continuing the traditional techniques of working with shell cordovan, using time-honoured recipes and methods since 1905.
The Tanning Process
Vegetable Tanning
The tanning of shell cordovan is an intricate process that heavily relies on vegetable tannins extracted from tree barks and other plant tissues. This method is known for its gentle interaction with the leather, allowing the hide to slowly absorb the tannins over a period of six months or more, significantly longer than the tanning of other leathers. This prolonged tanning process is essential as it ensures deep penetration of the tannins, which enhances the leather’s inherent durability and preserves its natural characteristics.
Following the initial tanning stage, shell cordovan hides undergo a crucial oiling and conditioning phase. This stage is essential for several reasons. Firstly, it replenishes the natural oils lost during the tanning process, ensuring the leather remains flexible and doesn't dry out or crack over time. Secondly, this conditioning helps in developing the leather's signature lustrous finish.
During this phase, the hides are infused with a blend of natural oils and greases. Each tannery has its proprietary blend, typically a guarded secret, which might include various animal fats, vegetable oils, and sometimes mineral oils. The application of these oils is not a hurried process; it involves multiple coatings, with each layer allowed to penetrate deeply into the fibers of the hide before the next application. This step not only conditions the leather but also enhances its inherent water-resistant properties.
The Art of Dyeing and Finishing
Post-conditioning, the shell cordovan hides are dyed. This is typically done using aniline dyes that provide vibrant colors while preserving the natural texture and grain of the leather. The dyeing process can also be custom-tailored to achieve various hues and finishes, depending on the desired end product.
Finally, the shell cordovan is polished to achieve its characteristic glossy sheen. This involves both mechanical and hand buffing techniques, often using fine brushes and soft cloths imbued with more natural oils and waxes. This final polishing not only enhances the visual appeal of the shell cordovan but also adds an additional layer of protection to the leather.
Unique Physical Properties
The dense fiber structure is one of the most defining characteristics of shell cordovan, setting it apart from other types of leather. This unique attribute contributes significantly to its reputation for durability, resistance to stretching, and overall longevity. Understanding the intricacies of this dense fiber structure helps explain why shell cordovan is such a sought-after material for high-quality leather goods.
Nature of the Fibers
Shell cordovan is derived from a specific layer of the horsehide located directly under the hide on the rump. This layer is known as the "shell" and is distinctly different from other leather materials due to its unique fiber density and arrangement. The fibers in the shell are tightly packed together, much more so than in typical cowhide or other leather types. This close packing of fibers is what gives shell cordovan its smooth, dense feel.
Benefits of a Tight Fiber Structure
Enhanced Durability: The tightly packed fibers provide exceptional durability. The dense structure makes the leather highly resistant to tearing and puncturing, which is particularly important for items that undergo frequent use and strain, such as wallets and footwear.
Reduced Stretching: Unlike softer leathers, shell cordovan exhibits minimal stretching over time. This characteristic is crucial for maintaining the shape and form of leather goods, ensuring that products like shoes and belts retain their fit and function for years, if not decades.
Smooth Surface: The dense fibers create a naturally smooth surface that is aesthetically pleasing and practical. This smoothness not only enhances the visual appeal of the leather but also makes it less prone to catching and snagging, which can lead to wear and tear.
Water Resistance: A tighter fiber structure inherently means fewer pores, or at least significantly smaller ones. This reduction in porosity enhances the leather’s ability to repel water and other liquids, thereby protecting the integrity of the leather and the longevity of the item.
Contribution to Patina Development
An often-celebrated feature of shell cordovan is the beautiful patina it develops with age and use. The dense fiber structure plays a vital role in this process. Because the fibers are so closely packed, they absorb oils, waxes, and other conditioning agents very evenly, which allows the leather to develop a rich, even patina over time. This patina is not only a sign of well-aged leather but also acts as a protective layer, further enhancing the leather’s resistance to external elements.
Renowned Tanneries Producing Shell Cordovan
When considering a shell cordovan product, it’s also important to acknowledge the source—specifically, the tanneries where this premium leather is produced. Each tannery has its own unique methods and recipes that contribute to the quality and characteristics of the final product. There are usually three major companies that come to mind when you think of Shell Cordovan.
Horween Leather Company
Based in Chicago, USA, Horween Leather Company is perhaps the most famous tannery for shell cordovan. Founded in 1905, Horween’s shell cordovan is celebrated for its quality and the rich history embedded in its production processes. Horween follows a traditional vegetable tanning process that takes at least six months to complete. This tannery is renowned for producing leather that displays a rich color and develops a beautifully unique patina over time. Many high-end brands source their shell cordovan from Horween because of its consistent quality and the tannery’s commitment to artisanal craftsmanship.
Shinki Hikaku
Located in Japan, Shinki Hikaku is another highly regarded tannery that specializes in producing shell cordovan leather. Known for their meticulous attention to detail, Shinki Hikaku produces shell cordovan that is slightly thinner and softer than that of their Western counterparts, which makes it particularly popular for smaller leather goods like wallets and watch straps. Their products are highly valued for their smooth texture and vibrant color options.
Rocado
In Italy, Rocado is a key player in the shell cordovan market. Established in 1963, this tannery uses traditional methods to produce shell cordovan that is known for its luster and deep, rich tones. Rocado prides itself on using environmentally friendly practices throughout its production process, appealing to those who are environmentally conscious without compromising on quality.
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